How to Test your Water
Only water that is disinfected with laundry-type bleaches have oil and grease in them and the correlation is 100%. The difference between these kinds of waters is easy to see with the naked eye if they are carefully prepared. I will describe 3 ways to find which water has laundry bleach disinfectant.
The principle underlying these methods is that oil rises in water. The top portion of the water will then have more oil and grease than the bottom. The top portion will have less electrical conductivity because electricity travels less well through oil than water. A conductivity meter or a handmade device could be used to compare the conductivity at the top and bottom of a water sample. On the other hand, oil detection paper could be dipped into the surface. Only very oily water could be detected this way, though, such as water from Africa. Thirdly, a flashlight could detect oil if there is a film on the surface and if the beam makes the correct angle to see it. These methods do not identify the oils chemically, but they are more reliable than laboratory methods, for simply finding them present.
There are no quantitative aspects to consider. If any oil is seen in a water sample it has laundry bleach in it. And you can infer the presence of PCBs, benzene, and the other toxins.
Making a Water Sample to Test
If your water department adds liquid laundry bleach once a week you can expect the pollution level of its whitening agents and surface tension reducers (meant for laundry), namely metals and dyes, to be highest one day of the week. If you only took one water sample and it was 6 days past the adding time, you might not detect the low level of grease or PCBs in your water. To be sure that you catch the grease and oil, you should sample for 7 days in a row and add them all together. Make at least 2 samples a day, more would be better. A 11/2- or 2-gallon wastebasket would be fine. Wide, deep containers are excellent, because most of the water is far away from the sides so the oil can reach the top. Rinse your container several times in the water you are testing first. Then, twice each day pour about ‘/2 cup cold and 1/2 cup hot water from your kitchen faucet into your container. This makes 14 cups total, almost a gallon. Keep the container on the kitchen counter where you can watch it and protect it from any vibration.
Do not carry the container anywhere, once you have started to collect; do not disturb it. Do not use a lid or tight-fitting cover. Even a tiny disturbance that merely vibrates the water upsets the ultra thin layer of oil that is trying to form a film at the top. If you disturb the container the film will tear and move to the sides. It will stick there and attract more oil to the sides. Just below the water’s edge the sides will later feel greasy. Cover the container with a piece of paper to keep out the dust. Keep a flashlight nearby and wait.
You may make 2 containers full of water samples in case you accidentally disturb one.
The Wait and See Way
The grease is slowly rising, some of it sticking to the sides. The wider the pail the less sticks to the sides and more will reach the top. After 3 weeks you could start to search for tiny grease granules afloat on the surface.
It may take 2 to 3 months for enough to rise to be visible. the surface than a plastic
A glass jar lets more grease reach one. In a tall bottle, it may have risen too high to Positive by Syncrometer®. Shaking the bottle makes it test Positive again. Any shipment for testing should be glass, but unless shaken at the point of use, the results will be variable.
Drop a short hair from your head or piece of fish line onto the surface of the water to mark it
for easier searching with a flashlight. Find the hair and you will have found the surface. The hair should be rinsed and dried first and cut to only a 2 inch (5 cm) length. Shine your flashlight from many angles and heights till you can see the hair and the entire surface of water. Look for a thin film on the surface occurring in small swirls and patches. Clean water is perfectly clear.
If the water has been disturbed start over. It will never reach the surface after it has stuck to the sides. Be patient. Keep the water at least 3 months.
Take a photo of the film and pail; describe it carefully in written notes. Be prepared to repeat this water test if you or someone else believes there is a flaw in it.
Fig. 134 African bottled water
Unopened water bottles from Africa develop oil slicks at the surface in 3 to 6 weeks, if left undisturbed.
The Oil Detection Test Paper Way
The theory: Oil attracts oil. Oil will “wet” an oily paper surface but not a perfectly clean dry surface. Test papers are made for this purpose. They are colored to make the “wetting” action easier to see.
The method: Cut a short strip of oil detection paper (see Sources). You may put a small drop of your water onto the paper or dip the paper. Neither way is perfect. Try both. A plastic pipette will hold the oil on its own surface and not release it to the paper. A glass dropper may not pick any grease up. A strip that is stuck into the water may release a lot of the oil it gathered, on its way out. But if oil is plentiful, all these objections might not matter. Allow several hours to see repeated evidence of oil penetrating the paper. Granules of grease may remain as granules instead of penetrating the test paper as oil would. This method was meant for higher quantities of oil, such as I find in African waters. “
Fig. 135 Oil detection paper
The Conductivity Way
There are a variety of conductivity indicators on the market. By collecting the water in a large container with a spigot at the bottom you can compare top with bottom water more easily.
An inexpensive device is available that has a very short gap (.S to 1 mm.) between two wires that connect to a battery and tiny LED light. When current is flowing the LED lights up. When the two wires are stuck into clean tap water, considerable electricity will flow. You can adjust the gap to be more or less sensitive. Water with oil in it is less conductive, so the light will be dimmer. Compare the top and bottom layers of water that has stood over a month. Draw it from the bottom to compare with the top. Water that is flowing cannot show you the conductivity differences.
Fig. 13Conductivity indicator
How to Use the Conductivity Indicator
1. Use a fresh 9 volt battery, not rechargeable variety. Keep it in a separate bag. It will last a long time.
2. Handle the tester with great care. Everything depends on the gap at the tips of the wires
3. Buy distilled water, more than one kind. You need to find a variety that shows no conductivity.
4. Attach battery to tester. Fit one side of battery first. Then swing battery into the other side of connector. This prevents accidental damage.
5. The tester light should not be on. If it is, separate the tips of the wires with a piece of paper. Bend them apart very gently till no light comes on when the paper is removed.
6. Turn off all room lights. It should be dark.
7. Open water jug, stick tester into distilled water, not above the wires. Light should not go on.
8. If the light goes on it is not suitable water. Try a different distilled water. When you have a distilled water that does not turn on the light you are ready to start.
9. Pour distilled water into the containers you want to test for metal seepage. Allow a suitable time, like 2, 12 or 24 hr.
10. Rinse the device before each test, in the distilled water, giving it a shake to dry it. Do not use anything to dry it except a very soft tissue. Use a very soft touch. If you do not dry it
before you lay it down it could short later and turn the light on by itself. That would drain the battery.
11. Now dip the device in each water container, not above the wires. Keep it in about 20 seconds, moving it around. Cup your hands around it to make it darker so you can see better. There should be no light, not even the faintest glimmer. That is a good container. Even the faintest glow is too much; discard the container.
12. After each test, wash the electrodes in the distilled water as in #10.
13. Well water, chlorinated water and rainwater all have considerable conductivity. Only distilled water may not.
14. This does not test for malonic acid or solvents or dyes. It is not as sensitive as a Syncrometer . It does not detect the weaker metals such as germanium or thallium very well. A conductivity meter is better in some ways.
The Centrifuge Way
The method: Purchase an inexpensive table centrifuge, with centrifuge tubes for holding liquids and a small brush (similar to a bottle brush) for cleaning them. Caps are not needed. Make a 7-day water sample. You need not wait for oil and grease to rise with this method. The centrifuge speeds it up.
Pour water to fill 2 centrifuge tubes nearly to the top. Label them and arrange them across from each other in the centrifuge, leaving the other holes empty. Or use other holes
to test other kinds of water, including clean water. Arrange them all symmetrically. This keeps the centrifuge from wobbling. After centrifuging at least 30 minutes at the highest speed it is capable of, set the tubes upright in a drinking glass to store till you can test for grease at your convenience.
Fig. 137 Centrifuge and tube
Then choose one of these test methods:
1. Dip a piece of oil detection paper into the surface. Set it aside to “develop” any oily color.
2. Dip your conductivity indicator into the surface and note light intensity or other kind of evidence of the conductivity. Compare this with the conductivity of this same water that has not been centrifuged.
3. Wait till an oil film appears at the surface. It may take the form of grease “particles” instead of a flat film at the surface. It may come in patches or swirls. It could take a week.
NOTE: If you dipped paper into the surface the oil would have been removed or disturbed so the other two methods will no longer be useful.
How.to Make Saliva Test Samples Homeographic
(The Prevention of all Cancers pg.578-584 copyright)
‘Two errors can creep into your decision-making. One comes from water softeners. All (100%) water softener salts tested had PCB-pollution, high strontium levels, uranium and, of course, high aluminum since it is intentionally present. Such “softened” water would be making your water toxicity much worse than it already was. If you test your incoming water before it enters your house (for example, at the garden hose) and it does not show grease rising to the surface, you could conclude you are getting clean water from your city. Quickly remove the water softener tank, hot water heater, and hot water pipes. If your municipal water is clean as it arrives, you merely need to replace these items with new ones. You cannot “clean up” PCB-containing grease; it sticks to metal, plastic, and glass surfaces. Be careful not to buy a water heater with a built-in softener.
The other error comes from having installed water distillers, water filters and extra pumps yourself. If even one is in your system, sample your incoming water at the garden hose to decide if the municipal water is clean and you don’t have to move.’