Laundry bleach in water

‘Because getting clean water is the most important step of this curing program, I will give as much help as possible with this.
Water from your reservoir, river, or wells, before it is treated does not have these pollutants. Water that is only chlorinated with chlorine gas does not have those pollutants either. Water that leaves the pump house where the free chlorine level was tested and boosted with non-NSF-grade liquid bleach does have them. There have been no exceptions in over a thousand tests. This means that asbestos in your drinking water is not coming in detectable amounts from asbestos-cement pipes. It is coming from the bleach added. It means that PCBs are not coming from aquifers or natural reservoirs. Nor is the motor oil and engine grease, although boats may be running there. PCBs and the other toxins found in laundry bleach are added at the pump station, too. Our public water sources are much cleaner than we thought. Pollution comes from willful or accidental additions made to them on the way to your home and the home of your pets and domestic animals.

Fig. 86 Laundry bleach contents (see POAC pg.251)

Water softener salts do not get added at the chlorine booster station. They get added in your home by running the hot water through a container that holds the salt or in other and newer ways. The salt itself is usually disinfected with laundry bleach. But it isn’t just salt either. It invariably has PCBs, benzene, uranium and strontium as its own major pollutants. ‘But’, you might say, ‘it only goes into the hot faucet. I never, never cook with that, or drink it’. Any single lever faucet mixes the hot and cold, even when it is pushed to extreme left or right. Even 2 separate faucets do not prevent spreading of PCBs to the whole house! Samples from the cold side always show water softener if it is being used in the hot side. Water softeners, even with good NSF-bleached water in your home is not acceptable.

…Not a Drop to Drink
All of our cancer patients (100%) had the laundry bleach “frequency-print” in their tap water and in their saliva, blood, lymph and tumors. Very many of them had the water softener “frequency-print”, too.
Yet 2 out of 3 water samples sent by friends and family members of patients were not polluted with laundry bleach, at least not before they had installed a filter themselves. Their water departments were using only NSF-bleach, as the regulation requires. About one out of 3 (33%) water samples contained laundry bleach instead of NSF-rated bleach and did not contain both, suggesting that laundry bleach use was a policy, not an occasional choice.
This means, if you have cancer or anyone in your household develops cancer you have a 100% chance of having laundry bleach water arriving at your kitchen faucet. The only question is: Did you bring it in yourself, or not?
Because there is automotive grease in laundry bleached water, you will be able to detect it yourself without help from a lab or Syncrometer® tester. But the grease rises slowly; it could take two to three months. Nevertheless, if your friends and family do the same test, you will be able to find a clean water source by yourself, visually. A non-visual method could be developed using other methods described on pages 581 and 583, but is not ready for accurate determination now.
Two errors can creep into your decision-making. One comes from water softeners. All (100%) water softener salts tested had PCB-pollution, high strontium levels, uranium and, of course, high aluminum since it is intentionally present. Such “softened” water would be making your water toxicity much worse than it already was. If you test your incoming water before it enters your house (for example, at the garden hose) and it does not show grease rising to the surface, you could conclude you are getting clean water from your city. Quickly remove the water softener tank, hot water heater, and hot water pipes. If your municipal water is clean as it arrives, you merely need to replace these items with new ones. You cannot “clean up” PCB-containing grease; it sticks to metal, plastic, and glass surfaces. Be careful not to buy a water heater with a built-in softener.
The other error comes from having installed water distillers, water filters and extra pumps yourself. If even one is in your system, sample your incoming water at the garden hose to decide if the municipal water is clean and you don’t have to move.

Cool Clear Water
If your incoming water is grease-contaminated, the only solution is to move, as before. If it is not contaminated, you could simply replace all your pipes and heater. Remove any distiller or filter or pump. This is also the time to change pipes to PVC if you had metal. You cannot clean pipes once grease has traveled through them bringing PCBs. Get new fixtures as well, but not plastic valves because these have hidden “permanent” grease fittings; again PCBs hide there. Metal faucets and valves do not contribute detectable amounts of metal.
All this testing delays your start with the 3-Week Program. You might think that switching to bottled water would be a solution. It is not. But a temporary solution, while you are spending 2 or 3 weeks searching for a good water zone, is to make your own metal-free water, starting with a distilled water that has very little heavy metal pollution. Use a conductivity indicator to find good distilled water. It is almost as sensitive as a Syncrometer . You can filter such zero-conductivity distilled water through your own pitcher filter to remove residual aluminum, strontium, ruthenium, rhodium and others. These are ultra important to your illness, besides the cancer. But you must boil your activated carbon first. Boiling does not clean up charcoal that contains laundry bleach due to its own disinfection. Buy clean charcoal first (see Sources). Test the water again after filtering. See instructions on page 589.
The only storage container that does not seep is the same polyethylene jug you purchased with the distilled water. Save these.
You might think a good filter would be a solution for your home water supply. It is not. The filters now on the market actually bring these pollutants because laundry bleach was used during manufacturing to disinfect them! Even the activated charcoal is disinfected this way. That is why replacement charcoal for your filter must be a tested variety and must even be boiled to remove its strontium and ruthenium.
You might think that a distiller would be a solution; would it not boil off the solvents and leave behind the heavy metals to give you pure water? It does none of these things. The solvents, heavy metals and dyes in laundry bleach water all carry over with the steam. And any attached filter adds its own laundry bleach to otherwise clean water.
You might think that a reverse osmosis system would be a solution. It uses a membrane that should keep out all toxins. It does not. The membrane itself is made of heavy metals, the very worst ones, such as lanthanides (thulium, yttrium, ytterbium). It is accepted in FDA regulations for such filters. The agency personnel are probably ignorant about lanthanides.
You might think that bringing buckets and bottles or tanks of good water to your kitchen would be a solution. It is the very worst. Many former cancer patients, in fact all who had a later recurrence, had fallen into this “logical” loophole and became a casualty. All the water running from faucets in your home should be free of laundry bleach.
Do not start to detoxify or kill parasites until you are living in a clean water zone. It will all be wasted. Merely getting clean drinking water for drinking and cooking still leaves you with PCB-water (from laundry bleach) for washing. This will not be satisfactory. There will be hardly any progress, even in 6 weeks.

Well Water…
…is a very good water!
One solution is by far the easiest: moving to a home with a well. Now you are in charge. But I must hasten to warn you; some patients who chose this easier path, this sure road to success, still lost their cure because they again had the wrong bleach in their well water! They had allowed someone else to do it by giving them the task of routine disinfection. Once added it could not be removed. The pipes had become contaminated, as well as the pressure tank. Any filter added to your well water would create the same problem as before.
Do not leave any water “chores” to anyone but yourself. Get NSF-stamped bleach ahead of time at your pool store; explain it to your workmen as they drill, clean or repair. Provide it free of charge. But do not give them the responsibility; be present yourself and add it in your presence. Explain to the supervisor that if his workmen accidentally use “store bleach”, you won’t be able to use it nor pay for the work. You will have the water analyzed on their last day, to be certain. Leave nothing to chance. You must provide the NSF-bleach and be sure no other bleach is on the work premises when well digging or servicing is going on. Of course, well diggers don’t like to be supervised or watched. But getting free disinfectant is always appreciated. Make sure you get their partly used bottles in exchange. Calcium hypochlorite is a good choice for underground repairs and general servicing. It is not polluted and is also available at pool stores.
To disinfect the water if coliform bacteria are found, ozonate your own well water. Any chlorination has other serious disadvantages for a cancer patient. Chlorine is an overoxidizing toxin and your body already is over-oxidized. The chlorination compounds made by the chlorine are carcinogenic. It makes no sense to chlorinate water and drink extra carcinogens in a society where already about 1/2 of all men and women are getting cancer and you are already diagnosed!
But do not install a commercial size ozonator. The pumps, filter, valves and fixtures attached to it would surely foil you again. Check into small units without a single filter added or build your own filter.
Well water has special healing minerals, such as iridium, and is the most delicious of waters. Ozonate with a small unit that runs ozone into the holding tank on a schedule. Or ozonate at point of use and only if necessary. Learn to use a coliform test you can find at a pool supply store. Keep yourself safe with a minimum of ozonation.
You may pump water from a well straight into a holding tank that you place high enough to let gravity feed to your plumbing. If you get sediment the well pipe is too deeply placed. You could use a stainless steel mesh strainer. The pump should not be the older submersible* variety because the oil contained inside will eventually leak (called pump failure) and let out PCBs again! A warranty of a mere 10 years already tells you this. Even if it didn’t fail for 15 years, the result is PCBs in the well water and they don’t go away. You have ruined the well. Get a surface pump. A surface pump needs periodic oiling and greasing. Make sure no automotive greases are used for this when repairing the lift-cup in the shaft, use lard. Do it yourself!
* A newer submersible variety using water lubrication only is available. See Sources.

Filtering or distilling well water would lose the very important advantage of getting minerals from such water. The heart thrives on “hard” well water minerals. Adding minerals back after taking them out would be a hoax very similar to adding enrichment vitamins back to white bread.
Only a high iron level is reason enough to filter your well water. And only with a homemade filter so you can choose safe activated carbon for it and can recharge it yourself by boiling without having to constantly buy, test, and treat new filters.
* A newer submersible variety using water lubrication only is available. See Sources.

On the other hand, water should not have nitrates, or pesticide. If it does, it is unfit for you. Drilling deeper may lead to better water without these surface “runoffs”.

Rainwater
In my opinion this is the best water, but it should be tested for strontium, beryllium, vanadium and chromium first. These can be filtered out with a filter pitcher. It needs no pumping or disinfecting which add risk to it. How to build a cistern, coating it and using a plastic liner have all been described in magazines devoted to simpler living. Find them on the Internet. Water samples I tested from such a source have proven safe, because the plastic liner was hard enough not to seep. If you are sick, bedridden or very advanced, collect your own for personal use (see page 114). This does not replace the need for safe water to come into your kitchen through the faucets, though.

Other Solutions
Another solution is to rent or lease a large, new, uncolored plastic tank on wheels, holding about 300 to 600 gallons. Purchase your NSF chlorinated water from a source you have tested yourself. Connect it to your water line with a metal valve. Fill it regularly. Purchase a water-lubricated pump (see Sources). Test it first in a bucket of clean water by sampling the outflow and testing for laundry bleach. Keep extra pumps and tanks to a minimum and test your water again as it arrives in the kitchen.
The house water pipes and water heater should be changed at the same time since the new good water will not clean them. Yet another solution is to rent an RV and connect it to an RV park water line after you have tested their water. The cost will be low since you are not driving anywhere. Pipe the water in through a new flexible hose to your plumbing system, bypassing your pipes. Buy a new storage tank, water heater and fixtures. Or put an RV on a family member’s property where the water is good.

Flee First, Fix Later
Don’t wait for all this if you have a cancer diagnosis. Flee from your water immediately. You have a 100% chance of failure at home. Moving anywhere else, to a different water district would give you a better chance of success (at least 50%).
Flee to a motel, apartment, or RV site in a different water district immediately. Make sure that no water softener or “extra bleach” is used by their own installation. It is a common practice in “rentals” to add more bleach personally through an extra dispenser. Water softeners are attached to water heaters, too, usually near laundry rooms. Choose a room furthest from the laundry room that gets a different water heater. Unfortunately, there is no test by a commercial lab that can tell you which kind of bleach is being added to the water. Only a Syncrometer® tester could do this in a very short time.
Test their water first. The water sample may be taken from the outside faucet or a neighboring gas station rest room, as long as it represents the same water district as the motel or apartment you have chosen. Find the motel or apartment first so you can ask the manager if there is a water softener or any water treatment in the plumbing system.
Since the use of laundry bleach in drinking water is a partly personal and partly haphazard decision by the water department, there is no guarantee that “good” water will stay “good”. The personality and policy of the department overseers make the difference between choosing laundry or NSF-bleach varieties. But “bad” water is not likely to change to “good” after the habit has begun. Reminders of legalities do not work either. The best decision is to relocate to a good municipal water supply, at least temporarily. This way you have time to make the changes in your own plumbing for your return later, if you were so fortunate as to have a good city supply. If you have friends or family that will do this for you while you are away, you have blessings beyond counting.
The rest of this 3-Week Program will bring you success with unprecedented certainty, but only if you have moved to a clean water source.
Thousands of people have cured their own cancers. They moved away from their “Cancer Houses”. You can join them and plan for a normal life.